Afterwork:
Komiza – Mediterranean as it used to be
9.12.2011 | Author/Source komiza12.jpg
Text: Dan Figenwald
Photo: Z. Vukasovic
Source: Croatian Traveller
We couldn’t say that Komiza hasn’t changed much since the 12th century, when this town on the island of Vis, probably the most fascinating island on the Adriatic, was first mentioned. But if there’s a place on the coast that is “immune” to tourist progress, than it’s definitely Komiza. It’s not its flaw, on the contrary. If we’re looking for a corner of true Mediterranean south, we’ll find it in Komiza, and perhaps only in Komiza.
Of course, different people have different ideas about a perfect summer, so we’re not even thinking about suggesting that Komiza is an ultimate solution for a perfect summer, but what we can do, and the thing we are doing with great gusto, is to describe to you in a few sentences what is so fascinating in a town that not so long ago had seven functioning fish processing plants. They were all united under the “Neptun”, but during the privatization process, a thing occurred that is as fascinating thing as Komiza itself (but not in a positive way) – the fish processing industry completely disappeared! Abracadabra! But let’s not add insult to injury. Let’s skip this subject that is painful to the people of Komiza and let’s start digging through its past.
During the Austria Hungary era, almost 5,000 people lived in Komiza and the surrounding area. It was the golden age of this town that lies ten kilometers from the town of Vis. WWI, the grapevine diseases, and then WWII and its consequences (closing the island for foreign tourists) forced the local population into exodus, searching for better living conditions. There is almost ten times more fishermen from Komiza and their descendants in the Californian city of San Pedro than in the whole area of this island in South Dalmatia (Komiza currently has a population of 1,680). Ranko Marinkovic, Miljenko Smoje and Ivica Vidovic – three of the best known people from Komiza – did not leave for San Pedro, but they started their successful artistic life right here in Komiza.
When the island opened in 1992 and the ban for foreign tourists was lifted, the town of Vis soon turned into a nautical hotspot and Komiza only got breadcrumbs from the table. It is on the other side of the island and is less practical to sail into, so many people skip it. But they’re missing a lot: it is peaceful enough, but then again, not boring, Komiza accepts its guests like it’s their relatives. Don’t get us wrong – tourism moved things here as well. Here we have the avant-garde Alternatura, excellent agency for organizing all sorts of excursions and sports activities, Villa Nonna, apartment stone house in its original form, almost luxurious on the inside, and the famous (and a bit too expensive) Jastozera, and Konoba Bako, the ultimate gastro-destination with an attractive terrace, enabling you to eat your dinner not a meter away from the sea.
You will have all this with a dozen excellent beaches (mostly covered with pebbles). The most beautiful of them, Kamenica, also organizes nightly parties with house music... We did not mean it seriously when we said that it hasn’t changed much since the 12th century. It has changed, of course. It is enough just to take one look at the house of the famous Zagreb architect Davor Matekovic (the author of the “refreshed” skyscraper on Ban Jelacic square in Zagreb), which is a perfect combination of tradition and comfort. But it changed a lot slower than anywhere else in the Adriatic. Luckily for all those looking for one such summer oasis of peace and beauty.
Photo: Z. Vukasovic
Source: Croatian Traveller
We couldn’t say that Komiza hasn’t changed much since the 12th century, when this town on the island of Vis, probably the most fascinating island on the Adriatic, was first mentioned. But if there’s a place on the coast that is “immune” to tourist progress, than it’s definitely Komiza. It’s not its flaw, on the contrary. If we’re looking for a corner of true Mediterranean south, we’ll find it in Komiza, and perhaps only in Komiza.
Of course, different people have different ideas about a perfect summer, so we’re not even thinking about suggesting that Komiza is an ultimate solution for a perfect summer, but what we can do, and the thing we are doing with great gusto, is to describe to you in a few sentences what is so fascinating in a town that not so long ago had seven functioning fish processing plants. They were all united under the “Neptun”, but during the privatization process, a thing occurred that is as fascinating thing as Komiza itself (but not in a positive way) – the fish processing industry completely disappeared! Abracadabra! But let’s not add insult to injury. Let’s skip this subject that is painful to the people of Komiza and let’s start digging through its past.
During the Austria Hungary era, almost 5,000 people lived in Komiza and the surrounding area. It was the golden age of this town that lies ten kilometers from the town of Vis. WWI, the grapevine diseases, and then WWII and its consequences (closing the island for foreign tourists) forced the local population into exodus, searching for better living conditions. There is almost ten times more fishermen from Komiza and their descendants in the Californian city of San Pedro than in the whole area of this island in South Dalmatia (Komiza currently has a population of 1,680). Ranko Marinkovic, Miljenko Smoje and Ivica Vidovic – three of the best known people from Komiza – did not leave for San Pedro, but they started their successful artistic life right here in Komiza.
When the island opened in 1992 and the ban for foreign tourists was lifted, the town of Vis soon turned into a nautical hotspot and Komiza only got breadcrumbs from the table. It is on the other side of the island and is less practical to sail into, so many people skip it. But they’re missing a lot: it is peaceful enough, but then again, not boring, Komiza accepts its guests like it’s their relatives. Don’t get us wrong – tourism moved things here as well. Here we have the avant-garde Alternatura, excellent agency for organizing all sorts of excursions and sports activities, Villa Nonna, apartment stone house in its original form, almost luxurious on the inside, and the famous (and a bit too expensive) Jastozera, and Konoba Bako, the ultimate gastro-destination with an attractive terrace, enabling you to eat your dinner not a meter away from the sea.
You will have all this with a dozen excellent beaches (mostly covered with pebbles). The most beautiful of them, Kamenica, also organizes nightly parties with house music... We did not mean it seriously when we said that it hasn’t changed much since the 12th century. It has changed, of course. It is enough just to take one look at the house of the famous Zagreb architect Davor Matekovic (the author of the “refreshed” skyscraper on Ban Jelacic square in Zagreb), which is a perfect combination of tradition and comfort. But it changed a lot slower than anywhere else in the Adriatic. Luckily for all those looking for one such summer oasis of peace and beauty.
