Istria is one of the tourist destinations in highest demand by Europeans and Croats alike. The Croatian Tuscany, as they call it, is a true tourist heaven with two faces. The beauty of the sea and the amazing diversity of the interior attract gourmets and modern day nomads desiring relaxing rest and joys for the eyes and soul. The magic of Istria offers is available throughout the year. Apart from the tourist centers on the coast that offer mass tourism, there small towns in Istria’s hinterland, surrounded with stone walls with churches on the hills, whose beauty seems to silently indicate a rich history and even brighter present. Istria is a true treasury of natural beauty, cultural customs, historical landmarks and mystical legends.

 

Along with the all the riches of seafood, the famous Istrian konoba taverns and restaurants with their beaming and friendly hosts offer home-made smoked ham, wine, olive oil and magical truffles that are said to have aphrodisiac properties.

 

For the lovers of Istrian wines, there are hundred or so marked itineraries of wine roads, which are inevitable routes in Buje, Porec, Rovinj, Vodnjan and Labin area. In almost every cellar along one of the winding wine roads, you can try Istrian Malmsey, Teran, Muscat, Pinot, Borgonja of the authentic Hrvatica. Those who try the Istrian soup (a traditional dish with roasted bread in a bukaleta pitcher with red Teran wine) claim that it is a delight they gladly go back to, over and over again.

 

Opposed to the elite four or five star hotels along the coast, where a single night’s accommodation can reach up to dazzling 10.000 euro, in the past years, the rural Istria with its super luxury villas made of stone and wood has become a favorite destination and a lure to anonymous and other rich people. Only in the vicinity of Porec and Pula, the unique desolate villas are occupied by rich Europeans, people from the Zagreb and Belgrade entertainment scene, and many numerous athletes who are crazy about Istria. These comfortable villas were raised in a picturesque rural region of Istria, far from the tourist crowds. For a single rent of these lavish villas, it is necessary to pay up to 1,250 euro, but with the use of additional services, that price will almost double. Guests can rent a chef, butler, driver, and everything else that crosses their mind. Almost every villa has a pool, library, sauna and wine cellar supplied with select wines.

 

Istria is more and more becoming a place for rest and a second home to the rich and famous, and this is evident from the fact that Formula 1 brother duo of Ralf and Michael Schumacher purchased several million euro worth of villas near Buje and Umag. Near Tinjan in central Istria lies the residence of the Istrian baron Friedrich Mayer Meinhof from Salzburg, the Scottish lord Alexandar McEwen found his peace in a castle in Oprtalj, while the famous German Andreas von Bismarck purchased a villa near Porec. Villa Baladur near Porec is home to the most famous Croatian “millionaire”, Tarik Filipovic.

 

Far from the overcrowded coast and luxury, even the mere sightseeing of idyllic places, picturesque natural beauties of Istria, will turn in a second into a dreamy romantic trip.

 

If you enter Istria from continental Croatia on the Kvarner side, the 1,400 meters high tame Istrian mountain of Ucka is an ideal starting point and an attractive starting point to see almost every corner of mystical Istria from the bird’s eye view. The highest Istrian mountain is a favorite among the excursionists, hikers and paragliders.

 

Cruising around Istria up and down, people often stop in Dvigrad, a town that has died long ago. A walk among the remains of stone walls of Dvigrad, located at the entrance to Limska draga and not far from the town of Kanfanar, is a true challenge with a “hint” of historical remnants that are a mute witness of the downfall of this Istrian town. It was completely abandoned in mid 17th century, after thousands of its people were mown down by the plague.

 

The smallest town in the world, with a population of twenty, is often visited by many visitors. This pretty town that is “compacted” between city walls captivates with the thousand years of historical beauty on merely a few hundred square meters. This town on the hill is entered through copper double doors. It was made of stone and raised on a rock. The base of the town is adorned by Glagolitic monuments with the 6-kilometer long Glagolitic Alley, a must stop along your way. Each of the monuments on both sides of the road is adorned with ancient Croatian alphabet (Glagolitic alphabet), used to write many ecclesiastical and legal books and documents. Only a few kilometers away in the uninhabited Kotli, the view of the old water mill beneath the rustle of cascades in a craterlike hollowed rock provides an almost unreal pleasure.

 

The old town in central Istria, raised next to the source of Mirna River, sticks out on a hill beneath Cicarija in its Medieval attire. Lying on the crossroads of paths between Rijeka, Pula and Koper, Buzet is full of curious people, as well as chance travelers who desire to reach to the skies. Next to Buzet, there are several favorite destinations for paragliders and hang gliders. Apart from the Ancient monuments, Buzet area also stays in a good memory of many also for the biska liquer that many consider having medicinal properties. Biska, a specially made brandy with mistletoe leaves from an oak, are a unique delight for the palate.

 

A small town in the center of Istria on top of a 300-meter high hill above the riverbed of river Mirne, and the mysteries lying behind the walls that surround it are very much inviting to be seen, felt and experienced. For ten years running, Motovun has become a true center of the world in the summer months for the lovers of the motion pictures. If you see Motovun from afar, don’t just go around it. You can reach it by car, or on foot, using a shortcut. A view from the top of the Mirna river valley will leave you breathless.

 

Opposite Motovun, on the neighboring hill above Mirna River, sits the picturesque town of Oprtalj. Beneath Oprtalj, the village of Livade along the Mirna river valley is the biggest habitat of white and black truffles in this part of Europe.

 

The picturesque little medieval town with four churches was often the “target” of movie directors and famous actors, so it was the location of numerous movies. Nastassja Kinski, Michael York and other famous actors walked the short and narrow streets of Draguc, and that’s why it was dubbed the Istrian Hollywood. If you happen to visit the center of Istria, be sure to visit Draguc that opens the view of the surrounding towns and the artificial lake of Butoniga.

 

Just like many other Istrian towns, Grotnjan was also built on a tall hill above the riverbed of Mirna River. A picturesque town surrounded by walls became a true artistic center of Istria and beyond. A town whose sleepy tranquility attracts both painters, musicians and movie makers, as well those who desire just to walk its winding streets covered in stone.

 

If you drive around the center of Istria, your eye will surely not miss the unique stone buildings - kazun. Kazun is a recognizable low, circular building with a dome, made of stone with no mortar. Most of them can be found around Vodnjan, in the triangle between Pula, Zminj and Rovinj. The landowners used kazun from the early days as shelters or tool sheds. Today, kazun is one of the most recognizable symbols of Istria.

Source: Croatian Traveller

 

Boston is located only 360 kilometers from New York, four hours by train or bus. It is the center of New England, one of the oldest American towns with a special historical importance. If you visit New York today, whose population consists of two thirds of Latin Americans and Asian immigrants, or even Boston, you will not have the full experience of the US. Namely, both cities have a European touch, especially Boston, but you will enjoy this new European note, completed by elements from around the world.

 

The Charles River estuary separates Boston from its suburb, which is actually a small town by the name of Cambridge. You can reach it after 10 minutes by subway, but if it’s a sunny day, the 45 minute walk with the view of the estuary full of small sailboats is the right thing to do. Today, Cambridge is in the academic sense even stronger than its English counterpart. In the 17th century, a Cambridge student named John Harvard founded the university with the same name. Today it has the biggest academic library in the US, and eight former presidents and 75 Nobel Prize winners studied here. It is definitely one of the best places to study law, medicine, business…

 

Also, walking back from Harvard back to Boston, you will reach MIT, probably the best technical university in the world. You will immediately remember films in which people from MIT consult the president in terms of astrophysics, or master the theory of probability to earn money in Las Vegas. Make sure to visit the MIT Museum and see interesting exhibits from the world of science and find out what they indebted us with: from GPS to the professor who designed the World Wide Web.

 

Although the subway is stylishly designed and the stations are much cleaner than those in New York, the city is perfect for walks. From west to east be sure to see Newbury Street, the famous promenade and shopping street that is full of elegant stores, reachable after climbing 3 to 4 steps, then take a break in the big park at its very bottom (or, if you visit Boston in the winter, ice skate with the locals), and then head off somewhere for lunch. Of course, if you haven’t already had lunch in Newbury Street that has many great places. Many recommend Hanover Street that, although it sounds German, is filled with Italian restaurants. It’s not like you don’t know what their food is like, but it is one of the Boston’s trademarks, so you should go there more for the atmosphere. Then go for a coffee and a walk along the Waterfront, to the sea air and the view of the sailboats, that are a bit bigger this time.

 

The Boston Harbor has special political connotations. It was here in 1773 that the spark went off that led to the War of Independence and creation of the USA. In the struggle about trade taxation, the people of Boston, disguised as Indians, threw three loads of tea into the sea. This “Boston Tea Party” started the separation of the Thirteen Colonies from the Kingdom. The term tea-party became hot again in 2009, after the actual President Obama passed the Recovery Act. It is a program worth 787 billion dollars that, along with the economic, has a pronounced social component. Many people think that the costs are too high, and that the US already has the biggest public debt per capita, so they devalued the US dollar to deal with it. They are not successful, but the tourists profit from it, because the US dollar is shamefully low.

 

You should not overdo the planning, because the immediate center of Boston center is not bigger than Zagreb, so it is easy to visit everything on foot, and it is also fun. For those interested in sports: the Boston Celtics have most titles in the NBA, the first baseball World Series took place here in 1903 (Boston Red Sox), and there is also the American football. Sailing is also a regular event: those less skillful pay for their place on one of the sailboats and go on half-day trips. The sea gives an extra dimension to a city. If it’s winter, you should stay indoors, away from the wind, because Boston winters are known for the extreme cold. In other periods, you can just walk around the streets, sunbathe, drink something on café terraces, or see a historical monument: Boston and Philadelphia were the main centers in the early days of the United States. Quincy Market is a multi-colored and pleasant space where you can try some international specialties, have a coffee under the dome or see a street performance. On St. Patrick’s Day (17 March) everything will become Irish, so you don’t think that everything is in Victorian and Italian tones. Those who like seafood: Boston is known for cheap and good lobsters, clam chowder and fish dishes.

 

The entire area of Cambridge and Boston is full of students, so this age group can very easily find night life: in Cambridge, the entire districts are very lively at night (and people don’t feel unpleasant in the early hours of the morning like in some other US cities). One of the clubs on Massachusetts Avenue with good music is Zuzu. There are gigs everywhere, with top notch music. And for those who are truly picky: hop on a bus, take four hours, pay 34 dollars (for a return ticket) and you’re in New York. It will have what you are looking for.

Text and photo: Juraj Sajfert

 

Chinggis Khaan International Airport does not inspire confidence, unlike the view I saw through the window right before we landed. Seeing the mild green hills, I immediately knew I’ve come to a special, friendly place. Smiles on the faces of drivers waiting for us, soon eradicated the paranoia that followed me there like a shadow. We landed on Saturday, 10 July, meaning that we had to rush to the municipal stadium for the central celebrations of the Naadam festival. This chief Mongolian holiday celebrates three sports: wrestling, archery and horse racing.

 

The opening ceremony was truly impressive. The riders are real acrobats, and it is hard to tell which folk costume is the best or girl prettiest in the parade. This was followed by wrestling, but the tourists are bored by looking at half-naked men entering the court and doing their eagle dance in front of numerous judges. Only here and there somebody actually wrestles. Archery takes place on a smaller stadium, so I gladly watched that, since the horse races take place out of town.

 

Ulan Baataar (Red Hero) is an overcrowded city. This bizarre combination of 70 year of Russian iron rule and the Mongolian traditional way of life struggles with its million inhabitants. You can imagine the crowds when everyone comes down for, and how difficult it is to get around the stadium through the heaps of food and souvenir stands. But no one is pesky, and no one will charge you “tourist fee”, although they know you have much more money than the Mongols, who barely make 200 dollars a month.

 

In the evening, we went to a nice restaurant that is frequented by wealthy Mongols. The smell of transition is in the air: everyone wants to be seen, arriving in nice car, Lexus, or even Hummer. As the band plays western rock standards, young girls are blinded by mobile phones. IF you want to attract their attention, it might be a better tactic to get their number instead of coming up to them and striking up a conversation.

 

Tomorrow morning, we head south on our expedition. We will spend the next eighteen days in three Russian made UAZ vans, a cook and a tour guide in tow. This is the best way to see more of Mongolia, because public transportation is either non-existent or very unreliable, and the roads are disastrous. That is why the travelers traveling alone, immediately upon arriving to Ulaanbaatar go to one of the guesthouses, and look to the advertising board seeking people who are travelling to the same destination, to share a jeep or a van.

 

We leave the asphalt road soon and ride the dirt roads, following previous tire tracks. The road network in Mongolia is mostly like this. We bounce around like sacsk of potatoes, and now we know why the vans have padded ceilings. Entering the semi-desert brought us the sight of unforgettable broad horizons and the first wild camels. Immense heat in one of the best known fossil excavation sites in the worlds, “the bright red burning rocks” follows us all the all the way to the desert town of Dalanzadgad.

 

After taking a shower in a public bath, we take a short drive to the Gurvan Saikhan National Park (Three Beauties), and it is quite cold among the three mountain massif in the middle of the desert. The amazing Yolin Am canyon is full of hawks and ice! The air is dry and there is no sun, so we pass by some crampons and ice axes. The contrasts continue after we arrive to the tourist yurts near Khongoryn Els (The Signing Dunes). We listen to the song dedicated to the kingdom of sand, made of dunes more than a hundred meters long, because there was sandstorm in the evening. Tomorrow we head south, and exit the desert sitting very comfortably on a very comfortable camel saddle.

 

As we travel north, things become lively. We pass through numerous huge herds that now include yaks as well. We come across yurts more often, so compared to Gobi I felt like I was in a metropolitan area, until I remembered: Mongolia has a million and a half square kilometers, three times bigger than France. There are only three million living in this area, with around the third living in the capital.

 

Half of the population is still nomadic. The old capital of Kharkhorin is a very uneventful city, so we kill some time playing pool on fascinatingly uneven pool tables in the city market. There are only a few temples left of the grandiose Buddhist monastery Erdene Zuu (Thousand Wonders), and the Mongols visit them with extreme humility. There is nothing special to see here for us tourists, because Stalin had no mercy for Buddhism, so everything was almost completely destroyed.

 

But we were thrilled by Tsetserleg, the capital of Arkhangai region (Southern Taiga). It lies on appealing green hills. It is obvious that this town is attractive to the strangers, because an Englishman opened a very nice hostel there, where for 10 US dollars you can get an overnight stay in a double room.

 

It is almost impossible to find yourself beneath the altitude of 1,500 meters in Mongolia, but I certainly did not expect to find myself on a pass on 2,900 meters. It is cold and you can tell that we are close to Siberia. There is wood around, so people don’t burn dry dung. We enjoy some delicious yak yogurt. The next nomadic family we visit lives in much higher standard than the first one. Their yurt is bigger, more comfortable and better equipped. But the 14-year old is fascinated by an amazing device called the digital camera.

 

Huvsgul Lake is a younger sister of the Baikal Lake. It makes for almost one percent of global reserves of fresh water, and it is so clear that I wanted to fall down on my knees and start drinking. I also met Tsataani who came down to the coast. During the year, they live in a remote mountain region along the Russian border. This small nation tames elks they use for everything. They live in wigwams, are devoted to shamanism, and my attention was captured by the huge horns of their elks.

 

The ride from Mörön, capital of Huvsgul region, to Ulaanbaatar is terribly tiresome, and I would recommend everyone to take an inland flight (although it requires a little bit of courage). The roads are being built, but it remains to be seen how the crisis will reflect on already modest Mongolian public funding. If you still decided to bounce around a few days in a van that does not go over 30 km/h, it is comforting that the northern regions consist of big rivers and series of green mountains, so you will not be bored. With every kilometer, the landscape grows greener, until you reach the mining town of Erdenet, first true civilization for miles. You can indeed feel the Russian influence here, due to copper exploitation. We are on asphalt again, and our trip is much more comfortable. Still, I feel sad in a way. You should also visit the Amarbayasgalant monastery with a beautiful central temple, because it lies only 35 kilometers from the main road.

 

We made a full circle and spent the last night with traditional Mongolian song and dance. If for nothing else, it pays to see the guttural singers from the west, because it is hard to believe that someone can make those sounds only with vocal cords.

 

Taking stock on the flight back home, it was crystal clear that my dad would have liked it a lot. Mongolia is vast, the landscapes beautiful and diverse, people simple, fair and humble, but it is the sensation of freedom that takes the cake. It followed me on my way, and was lost as soon I saw the newspaper headlines in a kiosk on Pleso Airport in Zagreb.

Source: Croatian Travller

 

An ancient place at the very south of Argentina, Ushuaia, is the last stop to many adventurers before they cross over to the Antarctica. Vjekoslav Paun walked around the Land of Fire.

 

“Look, isn’t that a checkered Croatian rain jacket?” Marina asked me while we were having breakfast in the restaurant Tia Elvira in the center of Ushuaia in Argentina.

Several hours after we landed from Buenos Aires, we were still not “right in the head”. Some because of the exhaustion of the two day trip, some because of the bad butter on the three hour flight from the Argentinean capital. But we were not mistaken! This indeed is a checkered jersey! Oh man, does it really have to be the first sight I am going to see in the 15,000 kilometers far “End of the World”, as they call the ancient Ushuaia at the very south of Argentine, in the Terra del Fuego. Checkers are obviously ubiquitous. In any corner of the Earth, particularly in Argentina. Particularly in Ushuaia. Germans and Croatians are “hosts” here at the End of the world. For example, Mustapic Hotel with the Croatian coat of arms is one of the most popular in the town with the population of 65,000, founded in late 19th century by the British colonists. The Yamana natives often started fires, so as the reception clerk informed us, and that is why the British named this part of the Earth the Land of Fire.

 

A day after an extremely rainy Friday that we spent in the restaurants Tante Nina (Aunt Nina) and Oma Julia (Grandma Julia), which speaks volumes about the German influences, we decided to visit the most important tourist attraction in Ushuaia. We left the Albatross Hotel, named after the famous bird that are common on the south of Argentina, and went to the impressively named train - El tren en fin del mundo (The train at the end of the world). The alternative to this idea would be to visit nearby Chile, but as soon we realized that what is millimeters away on the map is actually 10 hours by bus, we gave up on the idea of visiting the neighborhood.

 

The Argentinean Government in the first half of the 20th century sent its hardened criminals to the very south of the Land of Fire, just like Australia used to do. This train today is one of the tourist attractions of the Land of Fire.

 

“It was simply impossible to escape from jail. And that is why it was considered one of the worst in the world at the time”, said one of the “convicts” with a ball and chain who earns a good wage from the tourists.

“It was these convicts who built the modern day Ushuaia. They chopped down trees and made the railroad that is the attraction today. And we make a living off of it. That is why many people in Ushuaia live much better than the rest of Argentineans”, said the guy with the ball.

We were slightly shocked at the cash register.

“I am sorry, the price for you is 20 pesos. The price of 6 pesos is only for the domestic visitors”, we were warned by the brightly smiling cashier.

Something that is a public secret in Croatian tourism is a normal thing in Ushuaia. Some services are even three times higher for the tourists in Ushuaia, and that is clearly indicated at every step.

“I know this is nothing to you”, she smiled once again after we handed her the amount equivalent to some 30 kuna.

Taxi in Ushuaia is quite cheap. Mostly young cab drivers (there is a lot of female cab drivers as well) will not rob you blind. Restaurants and souvenirs – it’s like being in Dubrovnik during the Summer Games! Indeed numerous 4,000 passenger cruiser visits very much remind you of our pearl of the Mediterranean. Nevertheless, Ushuaia is the “launching pad” for Antarctica, so that’s why everything here has to be paid.

“This is you platform!” the conductor warned us and placed us into a train.

 

Twice as small as the Croatian older trains, it more resembles some smaller tram. The tracks are similar as well, somewhat narrow than the Zagreb ones. With the sounds of music we leave the “railway station” and head into the wilderness...

The beginning of December is special in Ushuaia. While Croatia is covered in snow, the south of Argentina sees the beginning of the summer. Those days in Buenos Aires it was almost 40 degrees Celsius, while the temperatures were twice lower than that in Ushuaia.

“Some people say it’s boiling hot when the temperature here reaches 25 degrees Celsius”, said Sofia in her modest English.

Everything is in bloom. The nature is truly beautiful in December.

“Just look at those horses roaming freely!”

Indeed, the animals live free in this beautiful national park, although not all of them are very much loved.

“Look what they’re doing to us. They destroyed millions of trees!” complained our guide Pedro about the animals that are protected in Croatia.

They have no understanding for the cute beavers. The beavers destroy trees, build dams, and have no natural enemies there. Some beavers realized that and gave up their work, carving the wood only out of boredom. They really “love” them in Ushuaia, so they will give you 30 pesos for a beaver’s tail.

 

After half an hour we reach our first station, the Macarena station. They attached the new locomotive and we continued our trip. After one hour we reach the lake that also serves as a border with their neighbors, Chile. Our cute attempts at picking dandelions were not received warmly by the Argentineans. We had to leave them, although there are billions of them.

 

At the end, they take us on a tour of the lake, also an attraction in Ushuaia. Afterwards, we head for desserts - their famous lamb meat.

“This is the best ski resort in Argentina. Numerous foreigners come here to prepare for the season during the summer days in Europe, like July and August”, the charming manager of the local “farm” told us.

That is true. Croatian skiing heroines Ana Jelusic and Nika Fleiss have been coming to Argentina for years. It should therefore not be a surprise that we saw that rain jacket from the beginning of the story, which is obviously a valuable souvenir for some.

“This is for you. Yes, all of it!” said the waiter when he brought us grilled lamb meat and potatoes.

 

In some Croatian restaurant, this would be a serving for an entire family. In the pleasant atmosphere of this rustic restaurant, whose walls are adorned with old photographs from Ushuaia’s history, we followed it all with traditional wine and wished we were in a horizontal position. We realized this plan several hours later...

 

What else are we going to remember from Ushuaia? The city reminds of Cicely from the TV show Northern Exposure, we were prepared to see a moose walk down the street. WE didn’t see one, but we saw a sign in the shop where we rented the equipment for our trip to the Antarctica: “Beware of the attack of penguins”. There is no McDonalds or Chinese shops, they still haven’t found their way to the end of the world. But there is an Irish pub! They love Marco Polo. Hotels, restaurants, even some buses are “branded” with this famous native of the island of Korcula. They do love their wine, as well as beer, with Quilmes being the most popular. Instead of the STOP sign on the crossroads, it says pare, and we also saw Stella Maris, reminding us of Umag, and we were also thrilled by the alternative scene concert in Ushuaia, Tribute to Nirvana.

 

We also like the blue double-decker that bears witness about the former colonial status of Ushuaia. The British are not that popular down here, because of the still ongoing struggle about the Falkland Islands that the Argentineans tried to restore by force in the early 1980s. Unfortunately, Margaret Thatcher severely beat them on that occasion.

 

As we were leaving Ushuaia, I took another look. From the altitude of some thousand meters you can clearly see the message in the center of this beautiful city. Ushuaia, the end of the world and beginning of everything...

Source: Croatian Traveller

 

Rich and famous history, diversity of landscape in a country surrounded by four seas, the remains of ancient cities and magnificent monuments of different cultures, mysticism of the Orient and the influence of the West, kind hosts and good food – these are the characteristics of this extraordinary trip around Turkey.

 

Istanbul welcomed us lively and noisy, as you could have expected from the greatest tourist center in Turkey. A city that was the capital of three great empires and the only city one in the world spreading on 2 continents, it is a harmonious combination of European influences and Asian tradition. We started the tour with the beautiful Hagia Sophia, the 6th century Byzantine church that was converted into a mosque in the 15th, and is now a museum, and visited the Blue or the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, whose 6 minarets rise to the sky, and we also enjoyed the timeless beauty of the Topkapi Palace. The fountain of Ahmed III in front of the palace and the Imperial gate opened the path to the former world of beauty and luxury, colors and arabesques, intrigues and secrets, while some of the yards surrounding the 15th century buildings hold the empire treasures with the remains of valuable items (footprint of prophet Muhammad in a golden frame, the jewels and empire clothes, priceless porcelain and so on).

 

On the terrace above the sea is a little terrace where the sultan waited for the sunrise during the Ramadan fast. All this, as well as other landmarks in Istanbul (Suliamaniya, the biggest of around 300 mosques, palaces, Hippodrome, Kapali Carsisi with more than 4,000 stores in a labyrinth of narrow streets, bridges over Bosporus) are the reason why this unique city is visited by so many tourists. You should definitely head to the Asian side of town, where you can enjoy the beautiful panorama from the Camlica Hill, and go for a boat excursion around Bosporus, with a visit to the Princes’ islands.

 

Along the northern side of the Sea of Marmara, the path led us by Gallipoli (largest battle of WWI with 500.000 dead) and the Dardanelles strait up to the famous Troy (Turkish Truva). The German Schliemann discovered in 1873 the so-called Priam’s Treasure on the location of Troy III, destroying the landscape and proving that the Greek civilization is a thousand years older than previously thought. They discovered 9 Troys from various periods. Remains of ancient buildings, an old oak and a replica of a wooden horse from the Trojan War leave a strong impression. Today, there is jewelry made and often worn that resembles the jewelry found from the days of the Troy VI.

 

Going further along the unusual landscape, we reached the “Eagles Nest”, i.e. the old town of Pergamon (Bergama in Turkish) on the elevation that was founded by Aeolian Greeks. At the top of the acropolis you will find the remains of the Trajan’s temple made of white marble from the 2nd century BC, the remains of Athena’s temple and the library that had 20.000 parchment scrolls that were taken to Alexandria when Marc Anthony gave them to Cleopatra. There is also the steep amphitheater from 3rd century BC. From above you can see far into the valley where you will find another treasure – the famous Sanctuary of Asclepius that was founded by the great doctor and pharmacist Galen, who was born here, and whose treatment methods are still acknowledged today.

 

On the coast of the Aegean Sea is the beautiful Izmir (Smyrna in Greek), who with 3 million inhabitants is one of the largest Turkish towns (after Istanbul and Ankara). The steep and narrow streets led us to the so-called Velvet Castle (Kedifekale), built by Alexander the Great and providing a view of the city and the harbor where we strolled until deep into the night.

 

En route to Ephesus, we visited a cave called the Seven Sleepers of Ephesus. The legend has it that it was the burial place of young Christians who slept in there for 200 years because they refused to bow down before the Romans. Ephesus is one of the largest cities-ruins, with the remains of Artemis temple that was considered one of the seven wonders of the Old World. The five kilometers long Arkadiana street that led to the sea, hosted on its paved remains that day a river of visitors who arrived from one of the cruisers. The city was founded in 1,000 BC by the Greeks, while today’s remains date back from 4 BC. There is also the magnificent amphitheater, and Celsus Library from 135. It is second largest in the world, right after Alexandria and Pergamon. Not far from here lies Meryemana, a house where Virgin Mary spent her last days. The site is venerated by Christians as well as Muslims.

 

A chapel was built on the remains of the house, surrounded by centennial olive trees, and to the right of the altar you will find a room where Mary died, according to the legend. Beneath it is a holy spring. We visited the remains of St. Mary basilica, the oldest church in the world, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, with a well preserved altar. On the Ayasoluk Hill you will find the remains of St. John’s church, and it is thought that it was here that he wrote the 4th Gospel and died at the age of 120. In the nearby Isa Bay mosque, the imam wrote an inscription for each of us with good wishes, and our exciting day ended with a visit to a “leather show” with beautiful models in the nearby town.

 

We discovered what true excitement looks the next day near the town of Denizli, where we, for a short while, unfortunately, relaxed in a pool with hot thermal water, which helped us to easily overcome further toils. Namely, this day was dedicated to the beauties of Pamukkale (Cotton Castle in Turkish), with unbelievably beautiful travertine terraces, created by sedimentation of limestone from the water coming from the hot mountain springs. This unbelievably beautiful sight, as we walked barefoot on the white terraces and pools that change color depending on the location of the sun, I will surely never forget. Nearby is the Hierapolis, the biggest Ancient necropolis in Antalya, with around 1,200 Greek, Roman, and early Roman grave-mounds and sarcophagi. We also visited the remains of the broad street with colonnades, while the nearby hill holds the 5th century sanctuary where St. Philip was tortured to death. It is believed that the crypt contained his body. There is also the amphitheater with 20,000 seats from 200 AD.

 

We admired the beauty of the Turkish side of the Mediterranean driving along the banana plantations, and near Antalya, where we spent the evening walking around the old port an buying spices, you will find two more ancient pearls. Perge, with the remains of Hellenistic towers at the entrance of the former city, ruined and abandoned in the 7th century, has a well preserved Agora and the remains of the bath with floor heating. It was unusual to walk around the former main street and wonder what it must have looked like when fresh water descended from the top of acropolis, providing natural cooling to the city streets. We saw the sunset at Agora, with Taurus Hills in the background. The main attraction of Aspendos is the well preserved Roman amphitheater that is still a venue for various events due to the exceptional acoustics. Side lies on the road from Antalya to Alanya. We walked by flowering hibiscus through a picturesque town built on the remains, with the monument to the omnipresent Ataturk, and then enjoyed the beauty of the magnificent temple of Apollo from 6th century BC at the very coast. The underground church of St. Thecla, Hell Pit and the Paradise Put with the remains of St. Mary’s chapel from the Greek times, the remains of Pompeipolis from the 2nd century, whose population escaped to present day Rhodes, and it is all spiced up by good shopping (imaginative souvenirs, harem pants, hand woven covers) guaranteed further excitement.

 

Tarsus is the biggest city in the Mersin province, where we visited the Cleopatra’s gate, where Marc Anthony and Cleopatra met and spent their honeymoon. We washed our faces in the Well of St. Paul who was born here, so it is another place of pilgrimage, and it is believed that water has medicinal properties. In Central Anatolia, near the town of Nigd, lies the Byzantine monastery of Eski Gümüs from 10th or 11th century (perhaps even 8th), carved into the rock. The entrance was guarded by a huge stone wheel, and the cells of the monks were entered from the yard. Behind them is the church with valuable frescos and the only painting in the world of Virgin Mary where she smiles.

 

Capadocia is impossible to be depicted faithfully in just a few words. One of the most beautiful landscapes in the world and the biggest assembly of churches and monasteries, a system of underground corridors and the underground city of Derinkuya on 8 levels, the beautiful Göreme location, a museum in the open, all under the protection of UNESCO - they are attracting tourists from all over the world. The fort of Ucisar opens the spectacular view of the valley, of the unbelievable forms created by the rain and the wind, carrying and toughening the volcanic ashes that formed firm but porous rocks, and the human hand adapted it to its needs. This is where the first Christians found their home at the time of persecution, and everything is full of conical items in the most unusual forms. The entire region can be seen from the balloon, and you can stay in the hotel carved into the rock. In the local town of Ugrupu we enjoyed the local delicacies, tasted the local wine, visited the brand name ceramics factory and shop. An evening walk and a visit to the Turkis coffee shop, full of stern mustachioed men completed this town full of impressions.

 

We still had to visit the Turkish capital, the chilly Ankara, we watched from the old citadel with the oldest part with dilapidated houses, whose crooked oriel windows looked like they could fall on us. We met some warm people here, ate some warm bread, visited the Ataturk’s museum and the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, and in the evening we relaxed with the dance of the dervishes and belly dancers. Walking along the fields of unpicked cotton, we reached the most beautiful Turkish city – Bursa, a town that has a special place in the heart of all the Turks, since it was the capital of the Ottoman Empire.

 

A clean and beautiful town, full of parks, with good quality water coming from the nearby mountains, it has its jewels. We visited the beautiful Green and Ula Mosque, and the bazaar full of stores selling gold. A particular experience was the visit to the center of the silk trade, the so called Koza Hanu. In the city that has friendship connections with Sarajevo, we came across the most beautiful souvenirs and tried some candied chestnuts. Going down the Ankara – Istanbul highway, across the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge we returned to the point of origin of our adventure, Istanbul, Europe and… the crowds.

 

An encounter with Romania, a country whose face changes depending on the desired “viewing angle”, current residence or the context of the situation you found there, is everything but ordinary. The best introduction to a genuine adventure, Romanian style, and only a warm-up for what’s to follow, you will find interacting with airport cab riders in Bucharest. They are characteristic for the glint in their eye, “I am so going to take you for a ride”, the automatic shrugging: “I don’t understand”, as well as the sudden transformation into a tourist guide who will treat you to an unexpected tour of the city, and a one hour’s trip from the airport to the hotel will be charged quite arbitrarily. And when you finally step into the night air one hour after midnight with a troubled view on the face, staring with a vacant look at the hotel sign that instead of expected Baneasa Parc says Ramada, you will once again see the resigned shrugging, and facing the thought “What will happen will happen”, you will let go to the “vertigo” of the spontaneously exciting Romanian night.

 

The grayness of today’s Bucharest and the murmur of its half-drunk nights can be very easily replaced with the brilliance of a Medieval pearl, the town of Braşov. Located in the heart of the most famous Romanian region of Transylvania, Braşov is located some 160 kilometers from the capital, and these two completely different towns are visually different as well. The charming Braşov, founded in the 12th century by the German immigrants, is also called a town at the foot of Mount Tampa.

 

Although people expect quite a lot due to the legends that have followed Transylvania from long ago, it is quite unusual to be standing in the center of the historical town of Braşov – on the main medieval square of Piata Sfatului and looking at the name of the town on top of the mountain, written in huge letters, Hollywood style. You will be promptly returned to the middle Ages by the old City Hall with the Trumpets Tower, from which the messengers sounded danger from invasions. “Probably the best city in the world”, as it is dubbed by its citizens, today it is a lively tourist town, relaxed in atmosphere and with a cosmopolitan orientation. However, as soon as its streets are washed by the first purple sunset, the vicinity of nearby Carpathians becomes more prominent, and the presence of scary tales based on which Transylvania’s glory is based, become stronger and more palpable.

 

It seems like there is an rhythmical echo around the center of the town surrounded by wooded mountains of words written in 1897 by the Irish writer Bram Stoker in his novel “Dracula”, “every known superstition in the world is gathered into the horseshoe of the Carpathians, as if it were the centre of some sort of imaginative whirlpool”. Since then and until today, the imaginative whirlpool truly keeps tirelessly spinning in this part of Europe, and the spooky haze that Stoker unknowingly covered this region in is a source of eerie legends that lure tourists from all over the world.

 

It is interesting that Stoker never actually visited Transylvania, but learned about it from books, and what he read seemed like a perfect setting for a Gothic horror novel. Some authors also claim that he created his legendary Count Dracula on the person of the actual historical prince Vlad Dracul or Vlad Tepes (1431-1476), who ruled on three occasions the Voivod of medieval Wallachia. His moniker Tepes, which literally translates as “the Impaler”, came after his cruel tyrannical nature that drove him to impale between 30 and 100.000 people.

 

However, although he was credited with numerous unthinkably sickening killings and taking delight in the suffering, and the old copperplate prints depict him eat sweetly surrounded by impaled people (there was even a rumor that he drank the blood of his victims), Tepes was never directly connected with vampirism until Stoker’s Dracula. This cult count popularized the idea of the bloodthirsty Romanian ruler so much that the entire world almost instantaneously accepted the myth of the immortal blood-craving soul that still restlessly roam the vast expanses of Romania. That is why you can come across attractions linked to Dracula all over Transylvania.

 

The most famous attraction that is in the highest demand, the Bran castle, is only thirty kilometers away from Braşov. Although it doesn’t have much to do with this story, because Tepes spent merely two months there as a prisoner of the Hungarian king Matthias Corvinus, Bran truly resembles the descriptions from Stoker’s novel (the author did not specify where the castle is located). It resembles them so much that as you walked the medieval chamber you truly wish to believe the story of the cursed count, whose steps echo over the cold stone plates, while in the dark of the surrounding woods, the hungry children of the night howl eerily.

 

 

Since they are isolated on an island, the first encounter with Tokyo and Japan for most visitors will be the Narita airport, some sixty kilometers away from Tokyo. The very friendly immigration and customs staff will leave a nice first impression on behalf of the hosts. The second is that the transportation to the city is nice, that the trains and buses are punctual to a second, that everything is unbelievably clean. The cheapest way to get to the city is by train, for some 50 kuna, the buses are three times more expensive, and the taxi indeed has Japanese prices. The cab ride from Narita to Tokyo costs like some average plane ticket – around 1.500 kuna.

 

Tokyo is a city where the streets have no name. The addresses are more like descriptions, and a translation would be something like “that huge building located exactly in front of the station in the Western ogikubu”.

 

Along with mobile phones, the comic book reading culture is something you will notice even on a short ride to the center. A huge number of people kill their time with manga comics. First manga was drawn by the great Hokusai, and today’s manga covers all the aspects of life – there is manga about the right way to drink tea, treat the elderly, what is customary on a wedding, all the way to the most brutal sexual fantasies.

 

Brutality that can only be found in comic books is the complete opposite to reality. It is almost impossible to find an urban environment that is safer than Tokyo. Crime is virtually non-existent. Tokyo is statistically one of the safest, if not the safest city in the world. Even if you lose a wallet full of money, it’s highly likely that you will get not only the documents back, but also all of your money. All the world tourist guides particularly stress this fact – don’t get upset, return to the place where you left your things, and they will be there. At any time of day, you are safe in any part of the city.

 

One of the interesting characteristics of the city is that Tokyo is not a single city but a conglomerate of several cities; therefore, there is nothing that could be called a city center or downtown. Life is organized around the railway stations or subways, and this is where you will find heaps of stores, restaurants, bars, clubs, while the residential quarters are further from the stations.

 

Shinjuku is one of the best known stations to the Westerners. Many luxury hotels, futuristic buildings and weird architecture buildings can be found in this zone that is also home to the famous Kabukicho – center of night life, pachinko parlors, and several red light districts. Here you have the 2-chome, spookily empty during the day, but at night a very lively gay district with lots of bars, clubs and stores that occupy several city blocks.

 

Only a couple more minutes by train from Shinjuku, you reach Harajuku, a heaven for teenagers who like to look somewhat different from what the parents deem appropriate. Those who have more money and follow the world trends will take a walk to Omotesando Hills, a street full of international brand name stores.

Not far from Harajuku there is Shibuya, one of the globally known stations in Tokyo, partly thanks to Bill Murray and Scarlet Johansson, who roamed this part of the city, afraid and pale in the face in the movie Lost in translation. Shibuya is a place where you simply spend your money on fashion.

 

Beneath the station you will find the monument to Hachiku, a dog who came there every day for a decade after the death of his owner, a university professor, waiting for his friend to appear. The Japanese raised the monument to Hatchiku while he was still alive.

 

Like every metropolis that cares about its appearance and reputation, you can find some great eats in Tokyo. There are numerous types of restaurant. If you eat every meal in a different place every day, you would need more than two lifetimes to try every restaurant in Tokyo. Still, the main reason to eat in one of the gourmet capitals of the world is Japanese cuisine. It is known to be one of the highly esteemed, tastiest and healthiest, but in Japan, it is one of the cheapest. At any time of day, anywhere in town, you can have an extremely tasty meal that will not cost you more than 50 kuna! Something you would pay several hundred kuna in Zagreb, you can have in Tokyo for thirty or so. In Tokyo, you will eat cheaper than in Makarska or (heaven forbid) in Dubrovnik.

 

A good recommendation is to have a sushi breakfast in Tsukiji fish market. If you get out of bed early, you might see the tuna auction, even those coming from Croatia. Feel free to roam freely around almost 2.000 stands that sell everything you can find in the sea.

 

After a good breakfast, take a walk to Ginza, where the prices are astronomical so it is recommended you only watch. Is it worth it to pay 50 kuna for a single strawberry, or thousands of kuna for a watermelon, even if it square?

 

The thing you should not miss is a visit to Kabuki – traditional Japanese theater. It is possible to rent an audio guide that will explain the events on the stage in English. The Kabuki actors are a part of the family heirloom, and all the parts, both male and female are interpreted only by men.

 

In terms of prices, the Japan’s capital is no different from any European or prominent Croatian destination, and in some prices it is even better. You can spend a night in a hotel in Shinjukuse for around 150 kuna, eat for 30 kuna per meal, and the passes for several dozen chief museums and attraction, public transportation included, will cost no more than a hundred kuna if you purchase a Grutt Pass. Tokyo is just 12 hours away from Zagreb. Besides hundreds museums and temples, hundreds of thousands of snack bars of all kinds, numerous bars, you will be met by 35 million of smiling hosts.

 

If you can’t live without strukli or cevapcici, why not visit restaurant Dobro? If you’re lucky, along with Croatian food and wine, you might be in luck to watch a direct broadcast of the game by the Croatian national team. Don’t be confused that the majority of guests will be dressed in Croatian football jerseys, and that they share the disappointment with you despite the fact that they are Japanese. The Bilic Boys let them down good. The wine is very easily with Ozujsko beer. The disappointment is bound to pass in the next round of qualifications.

Source: Croatian Traveller

 

Natural sandy lagoons, reed, open sea, isolation, soil composition, peace, quiet... You can find all that in the sea of sand on this unique island. One thing you will certainly not find are hordes of tourists running around with their guides and cameras. You also won’t find jet-setters, cars or roads. Perhaps a tractor or motor cultivator, but that’s as far as it goes when this island is concerned. With lots of sun, unforgettable sights of sun setting into the blue Adriatic, authentic wines, complete relaxedness of the inhabitants, natural “silence” of waves in your own cove… Do you need anything more for a romantic relaxation?

 

Susak is divided into the open and the closed part of the coast. The open part is the southwestern part of the island, and it is open to the sea and the south. The coast is usually rocky and steep. The most characteristic is Obis or Ambisi. These are vertical rocks several meters high (up to 15 meters) that are suitable for jumps, because depth in these places is more than seven meters deep. The indented sea bed with caves and tunnels is ideal for divers. However, the open side of the island has its mild sandy and gravel coves. The most famous are Nasuzanski (blue and crystal clean) and Porat or Hawaii.

 

There are three beaches in this broad and shallow cove, and the white sea sand and the western view can provide you with an unforgettable experience of that red ball dipping into the blue sea. It is not by chance that it has two names. The original name was Porat, and it serves as a safe anchorage in case of bora. The name Hawaii concerns the natural beauty of the cove itself. The closed side of the island faces Losinj and looks northeast. The sea is shallow and completely protected from jugo, but open to bora. Bora that is created below the mountain of Velebit usually blows out of steam when it reaches Susak, so the big waves on the shallow sandy beach of Bok can be a fun challenge for the swimmers. If you have a surfboard handy, you can ride the waves. It is not like in Australia, but is nevertheless fun.

 

The city beach Spjaza reaches waist depth only after a several hundred meters, so it is ideal for toddlers or endless walks on the fine sand. You will find the following things on this beach: cold drinks, ice cream, deck chairs and parasols, but don’t count on any privacy. Although nudism on other beaches is possible and allowed, this is a place where even topless is frowned upon.

 

If you are looking for accommodation on the island, don’t look for it in a big tourist agency, and don’t even dream about a hotel. The connection to the hotel is not that good. You can reach the island by a ship (regular line) from Losinj or by a hydrofoil (catamaran) from Rijeka. If you arrive at night, you will be able to load all those useless things that are “necessary” for your vacation. The trip is short, and you vacation will start in the morning hours. The only problem is getting to Losinj. If you come by car, be prepared for ferries and bridges (congestion and fees) and multiple-day parking in Losinj. The bus ride is based on the local ride, taking the longer road over Brestova. Catamaran from Rijeka is perhaps a better option, but since it is subsidized by the government, it is adjusted to the islanders. This means that you can’t reserve the ticket in advance, but buy it a few hours before you depart.

 

In the summer months, it might happen that you get stuck on the island for a few days, because the catamaran is overbooked. You will arrive to the island in the evening hours, and leave at early dawn. You are limited by the amount of luggage, because you can take a maximum of one travel bag and one hand bag to the hydrofoil. Still, three hours of air condition space with airplane-style seats with a bar, TV and minimum fee, are very alluring. Besides, you can understand being on Susak as a return to nature, which it basically is. Make sure you get rid of unnecessary wardrobe and props, because you come to this island first of all to relax, not be a slave to the stereotypes. In numerous studies, dating back from Austria-Hungary, Susak is mentioned as an ideal microclimate for treating the upper respiratory tract, rheumatism, skin diseases and so on...

 

The folk legends still preserve the belief that sand and its properties can help in treatment of infertility of women. There is no scientific evidence to support that, but you can still see “buried women”, especially on the Bok and Spjaza beaches. One of the landmarks of the island is the “Veli Bough”, a wooden cross that was washed upon the beach by the sea, and the villagers placed it into the church. When after a while they tried to remove it from the church for the need of procession, they established it is too big and that it cannot go out the doors or windows. That is how the sea cross forever remained on the hallowed ground.

 

There are classical music concerts taking place during the summer in front of the church. Due to its exceptional position, it can be heard almost on the entire island. “The Vineyard Party” gathers party people of all orientations. In early August, all the necessary equipment is brought to the vineyard, and the party can begin. You need to take care for the drinks on your own, but the fun until dawn is guaranteed. Since 2006, Susak is also host to the Expo. Yes, no mistake: a real international exhibition on an island with a population of some two hundred. Devlin Daniel from the Chelsea College of Art in London gathered some thirty internationally renowned artists from around the world. They came to the island with no preparations, and made a true cultural multimedia event from the available material. One of the exhibits involved the placement of several meters big electrical switch on the beach.

 

This switch allegedly switches off all the lights on the island. This and similar installations made some laugh, and the others worried. In any case, the elderly islanders are watching this threatening installation with anxiety every time they approach it. The artists disturbed the island’s hidebound atmosphere, and the EXPO is set to become a traditional manifestation. Still, all the manifestations are nothing compared to the Days of Emigrants. This is indeed the central event of the year. The island is polished for days before the festivities. Traditional folk costumes are dusted off. Lively miniskirts and bright leggings strut around the island. Popular singers perform on the stage. Even the politicians stop by to work the electoral body, particularly those from abroad. Best suits are put on, and evening gowns are ordered from as far as America. Every emigrant tries to schedule their vacation around the last Saturday in July.

Source: Zaposlena Magazine

 

One of the most prominent financial centers of today was called Londinium by the ancient Romans. No matter how unusual it may sound, financial industry is the biggest industry in London. There are more than 500 international banks in the city, more than in any other city in the world.

 

Tower Bridge, National Gallery, Buckingham Palace, Trafalgar Square, Picadilly Circus, London Bridge, Westminster Palace, Madame Tussauds, Big Ben… If you go to London, you can be sure of one thing: regardless of how long you plan to stay in town, you will definitely miss time to see and experience all the tourist attractions of London. If you are a great lover of art, London museums will keep you busy for days. National Gallery on the biggest square in London, the Trafalgar Square, is among the biggest galleries in the world, with more than 2,500 paintings. British Museum is on the other hand the proud host of the most extensive collections, with more than seven million items related to the history and culture of not only London, but of ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome.

 

The best thing about this whole offer is the fact that the museum is open seven days a week, and that it is free. The tourists can select from one of the 10 foreign languages in the multimedia guides. West End district is known for numerous plays and musicals, while Upper Street is a popular street for entertainment and relaxed socialization with several rounds of drinks in one of the bars and restaurants. If you find yourself in the warm evening hours in the streets of London, you will notice that people do not need too much to have good fun. Most of them are standing on the pavement in front of the bars, chatting, beer in hand. Oxford Street is shopping heaven. It’s the busiest shopping zone in Europe, 1.6 kilometers long. You will find many brand name stores there. A sight you will definitely not see in Croatia is the people queuing in front of the Apple Store at the moment of releasing a new model onto the market.

 

Although many people confuse it with the nearby London Bridge, the Tower Bridge is one of the most recognizable symbols in London. It was named after the nearby landmark, called the Tower of London. This impressive concrete icon connecting two banks of river Thames consists of two massive towers connected on the upper level. The construction of this bridge in Victorian Gothic style lasted eight years, and were built by the diligent hands of 432 workers. The bridge was officially opened on 30 June 1894 by Edward VII, who was Prince of Wales at the time. Tower Bridge is 244 meters long, and although the bridge’s color was originally chocolate brown, the present color dates back to 1977, when it was painted white, red and blue to celebrate Queen’s silver jubilee. The bridge is specific because it is a combination of a suspended and retractable bridge. It does not retract often, but it still let’s in the bridges that sail the energetic Thames. Designers Sir Horace Jones and John Wolfe Barry can indeed be proud of their masterpiece.

 

Public transportation in London is one of the best developed in the world. Black taxis, the so-called cabs, recognizable red double-decker buses, bicycles, railway, cars. The battle with traffic is lost in the start, but how else to cope with seven million hurried lives and numerous tourists? That is why everyone can use the efficient London subway, cutely nicknamed “The Tube”, which is one of the oldest and the longest subway systems in the world. The open-top red double-decker buses are a nice solution for the curious tourists, and all day sightseeing of the city can be had for 26 pounds.

 

The busiest British railway station is Waterloo, while Heathrow airport is the busiest airport I the world when it comes to the number of international passengers. London an indeed be discussed at great length, about how it was the biggest city in the world from 1831 to 1925, that it hosted the Olympic games twice, and that it has four locations on the World Heritage list. You can talk about its parks, the St. Paul’s Cathedral and why Nelson’s column was elected, but no epithet, attribute or landmark will best describe London at its best. Therefore, head towards England!

 

One of the most mysterious and touristically neglected regions is Neretva Valley. Only three kilometers from Metkovic, and some twenty kilometers from the Adriatic highway that connects Split and Dubrovnik, stands the village of Vid, famous most of all because it stands on the location of the former second largest Roman city on the other side of the Adriatic. After the Slavs arrived, Narona was destroyed and lost some of its glory, forgotten for centuries, while various armies marched over its remains, or sheep and cows grazed. The village itself is located on the hill that stretches like an island over the last European primordial swamp, and the first contact with Vid is the view of the new modern Archeological Museum, whose architecture reminds a bit of the ancient architecture.

 

The chief exhibit in the museum, built in situ, i.e. exactly in the location where the artefacts were found, the temple with the forum with beautiful specimens of Ancient sculptures. The museum is actually functioning as the monument’s natural protection, and its architecture is linked with ancient past, making it one of the rare examples in the world.

 

A visit to Vid is also an excellent opportunity to try the authentic cuisine of the Neretva region Restaurant Duda i Mate, located some ten meters from the museum, offers things that can be rarely had anywhere else in Croatia. Frogs, eels, or if you’re lucky and come during the hunting season, the water-hen, a black bird that migrates from the northern parts to the far south, and Neretva is one of the stations on its long road – these are all standard parts of the menu. Eating here is like you’re eating with your relatives, and that’s exactly what the salad looks like, with huge chunks of tomatoes, bell peppers and cucumbers from the neighboring garden, that are just sprinkled with coarse salt and covered with home-made olive oil. Such a dish, just like the frogs that can be prepared in several ways, pairs nicely with wine. It is also the fruit of restaurant owner’s work. As the most famous dish from the Neretva region is prepared – eel stew called brudet (taken from the clear rivulet Norina that flows next to your table), you can take a break and walk around the village.

 

Passing among the old stone houses in the village that served as stables or taverns, something might seem unusual to you. If you sit on the first rock and open a bottle of ice Coke, you will probably realize that this rock is actually a capital from one of the supporting pillars of a temple or a villa of some dignitary from Narona. In the houses and stables you will suddenly start notice the spolias – reused pieces of ancient architecture. Reading in disbelief the Latin inscriptions built into the houses, you will realize that the entire village is in fact some sort of a museum. In the richness of this rural architecture in Croatia, one building stands out, the so-called Eres Kula (tower). This house that looks at least two hundred years old has built within its walls around a hundred ancient monuments, creating an epigraphic collection.

 

Walking on, you reach the top of the hill that is dominated by the Church of Our Lady of the Snow and the monument to an ancient Croatian ruler, Duke Domagoj. The church was designed by Danish architect Ejnar Dyggve, whose design tried to revive the old Croatian architecture of the folk rules. As you look from the top of the hill, or perhaps even Domagoj, down to the valley and the pirates who in 871 helped drive the Arabian forces from the Italian town of Bari, your stomach will probably tell you that it is time for that fish stew. You can eat it in the old ship, like those used by the Neretva pirates who terrorized the Venetians. Staff of Duda i Mate will take care that you are not cheated out of the eco-gastronomic safari down this clear river.